Beautiful tailoring in dazzling brights, understated blacks and more hushed, greyish colours.
Monochrome navy looks progressed to grey ones, before becoming increasingly deconstructed, and introducing splashes of red, and then some very wearable breton stripes with splashes of red around necklines and on shoelaces. The collection referenced military and workwear as well as sophisticated city tailoring. I’m quite taken with this.
GIVENCHY by RICCARDO TISCI
Givenchy showcased similarly classic tailoring with 80s inspired double-breasted jackets, alongside more radical graphic prints which Tisci has steadily made a Givenchy trademark.
COMME DES GARCONS
This season, in contrast to several other designers who’ve gone all minimal, Comme has brought us Punkish prints, full metallic looks and a tartan pairing that looks a lot like a pair of Christmas morning pyjamas. Oh, and flouro orange hair. Make of it what you will.
Personally, Kenzo is hitting all the right buttons for me as of late. The jungle inspiration (also found in the previous season) is manifest in an array of immaculately clashing colours and prints, and in particular a gorgeously rendered magnified leopard-print. There’s a definite air of the ‘urban jungle’ here too, and this was a brilliant collection for me.
MAGAZINE OF THE SEASON…
For all things menswear S/S13, your best bet is to check out i-D’s ‘Wise Up’ issue. It also contains a brilliant interview with and celebration of Grace Coddington, Vogue US’s legendary Creative Director, as well as some beautiful editorial shoots. You might have noticed how often we declare our love for i-D, but the truth is they deserve every drop of flattery we can give.